Day 4. Entraygues-sur-Truyère to St-Geniez d’Olt

Encore Le Lot

After two long days this trip along the Lot valley was supposed to something easier. It was certainly shorter - only just over 50 km – but the profile told a somewhat different story.

Conversation at breakfast turned to the inevitable topic of Brexit. A German fellow guest must have taken us for two of Mr Farage's finest and gave us a bit of a lecture on the benefits of European integration before we assured him that he was preaching to the converted. Meanwhile, the hosts were very worried about healthcare provision for retired expats after Brexit.

The first section of the ride was easy enough, keeping close to the river as far as Estaing, another of France’s plus beaux villages, where we stopped for coffee and to pose for photos on the splendid medieval bridge. Ex-president Giscard (still going in his 90s) owns the imposing chateau that dominates the village.

I had ridden this section last year and persuaded Les to follow an alternative route on minor roads on the south side of the river. The roads were certainly quiet but there were a few unexpected little hills before another coffee stop in Espalion. 

Last year I had left the Lot at this point to head south to Millau, but now we followed the valley up to St-Côme d’Olt (that's not a typo, Olt is the Occitan language version of Lot) for another crossing of the river and the first long climb of the trip – 350 m of ascent as the road leaves the valley to climb up to 700 m. The climb was not too steep, only about 4 or 5 per cent, but still a struggle in the 30 plus degree heat. After a half-hour rest and a cake at Lassouts the last section to the summit was a little easier and the reward was a long downhill through the woods back to the river valley and our very nice hotel in St-Geniez.

For a mid-week out of season the hotel restaurant was very busy, always an indication that the food would be good, and we enjoyed a fine dinner and a chance for Les to introduce me to the delights of steak tartare.


Distance today 54 km
Total distance 279 km.

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Introduction

Last September I completed a long-standing ambition to cycle from the Channel to the Mediterannean, mostly using the route described in the ...