Day 7. Les Vans to St Martin d’Ardèche

La Chaleur

For me, the day started well with a sumptuous breakfast at the B&B, but Les was feeling a bit under the weather. I blame the bone marrow. After a very pleasant ride along back roads through woods and vineyards past Chandolas we crossed the Ardèche river at Ruoms.  A short stretch along a busy road took us to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc for coffee and to stock up with food before continuing to the tourist mecca of Pont d’Arc with its spectacular limestone arch spanning the river. I was last here with Liz on our honeymoon 36 years ago.

Now things started to get more serious.  The heat was intense and we were faced with a 3 km climb at a 10% gradient as the road left the river and climbed high above the gorge.  A group of four Dutch cyclists overtook us but then decided that it was all too much.  And they were on e-bikes!

After several rest stops and a few GOAPs (get off and push) from Les, we eventually reached the first of the belvédères where drivers can pull off the road to admire the views of the gorge and the river far below.  A French tourist was clearly impressed by our fortitude or stupidity, insisting on shaking Les’s hand in congratulation.

Unfortunately that was not the end of the climbing, as the road twisted along the plateau, with several irritating descents and re-ascents to cross side valleys.  The views were certainly spectacular, even if we were in no mood to appreciate them as there was no escape from the burning sun, and it was a relief to find a small café where we could rest in the shade and enjoy a couple of drinks.

Now it was almost all downhill back to the river at St Martin.  Our hotel was annoyingly located a few hundred metres from where Mr Google thought it was, and it turned out to be a nondescript modern building, but the young lady patronne was extremely helpful and the air conditioned room was a very welcome bonus on such a hot day. 

We discussed plans over a beer in the village café.  Les was suffering in the heat and more hot weather was forecast for the following day.  A quick search of the internet revealed he could hire a car in Orange and drop it off in Nice in a few day’s time.  We considered our options over dinner and back at the hotel the deed was done – a hire car was booked and Les would drive the last few days to Nice.

Distance today 75 km
Total distance 504 km