Au Revoir au Lot
We were hoping for an easier time today, only 60 km and descending from over 900 m in Bagnoles to 200 m in Les Vans. The first section was uphill, but a very easy uphill along a beautiful wooded valley, through a tunnel under a medieval castle and up to the small village of Le Bleymard for a coffee stop. We had been following the Lot for almost 200 km and by now it was just a small stream as we crossed it for the last time, only a short distance from its source high in the Cevennes.
At least the next 25 km were downhill – a wonderful ride with sweeping curves and extensive views where it was hardly necessary to use either the pedals or brakes, descending back down to 500 m in the small town of Villefort where we joined the Sunday diners for a light lunch. Most of the lunchtime calories were then burnt off on a long grind climbing up to the Col du Mas de l’Ayre at 845 m. I connected an earpiece to my phone and found that listening to the Ashes on Test Match Special was a good way of taking my mind off the pain of the climb.
On the way up we were passed by a large group of Brits who were on an organised Channel to Med tour and as we rested at the col we met a lady who was doing a solo unsupported Saint-Malo to Nice ride and had stayed in our B&B in Entraygues, and was glad to have someone else around to take some photos of her and the bike.
From the col it is another long 650 m descent down to Les Vans, although the twisting road through dense woodland and steeper gradients required a lot more concentration than the carefree downhill in the morning.
I had booked a B&B in Les Vans which was located on the edge of town up a steep little hill. But it was well worth the extra effort – we had a large apartment to ourselves with a lounge and kitchen, and the swimming pool was a great way to relax after another hot day.
Strolling round the town and looking for a restaurant, Les spotted a likely place where the special was côte de boeuf. That will do, we thought. When the meal arrived it was a massive chunk of meat that seemed almost as big as the joint we have for 12 people on the WAGs, together with a large plate of chips and the bone marrow in a separate pot. As a self-professed gourmet, Les felt obliged to try the bone marrow. I wasn’t tempted.
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| Côte de boeuf for two - cycle tourists' portions |
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| Côte de boeuf - the remains. |
Distance today 62 km
Total distance 429 km
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